Paint tests on Fredrix Canvas METALLICS!
Whenever I try out a new surface I always dedicate one to absolute experimentation.
I use as many paints as I can in an attempt to learn the surface and see how it reacts to my materials. It’s always messy and usually not great looking at the end, but always fun.
Look at that SHINE.
This is the metallic gold canvas, from Fredrix Canvas. It’s a 13 oz poly/cotton canvas that has been triple primed with a universal metallic gesso (either in gold or pearl) and it’s GORGEOUS to behold.
I haven’t used too many pre-painted canvases before, so I definitely wanted to make sure and do an experimentation round first.
Layer 1: Thinned acrylic
I didn’t have a plan when I started (the key is experimentation) so I just started mixing and putting down various layers. This first one is a heavily thinned acrylic (water + glazing medium) to see how the gold comes through a very light wash of pigment.
Layers 2 and 3; Golden Hi-Flow (unthinned)
After letting the blue dry I added two layers of Golden hi-flow paint without diluting either color. I’m loving how the sheen of the canvas comes through these first three layers.
Layer 4: Watersoluble pastel
Next up is a bit of water-soluble pastel. I added it with a relatively heavy hand as I wanted as much pigment as the crayon could muster.
Layer 5: tempera stick
After the water-soluble pastel dried, I wasn’t too excited with it. Just a bit too thick and really seemed to cancel out the metallic sheen. I made a note to stick to thinner paints going forward - I love the metallic hints through the layers so I definitely want to preserve those.
I added a few circles of tempera stick next (bottom right of the canvas) and was pleased with how smoothly they applied to the surface. Again though, just a bit too opaque - so I probably won’t use these heavily on a real painting, but good for small details and line work.
Layer 6: slightly thinned florescent!
And finally I added a last layer of ever-so-slightly thinned florescent pink acrylic. I was curious how the bright color would interact with the metallic under the layers, and it’s definitely something I want to pursue further.
I’ve got a few ideas for sketches that I think would translate well to the gold surface, so I’m excited to move on to a little more serious work on these.
Have you tried a metallic canvas before? I’d love to see what you painted on these!
Problem Solving with Fredrix Pro-Series Dixie Canvas Kit
I love working on commissions. Creativity, problem-solving, getting to speak with clients; the process combines some of my favorite parts of being a working artist. As much as I try to make sure everything is ready, planned and budgeted correctly, as with any long-term project— issues can arise that could possibly derail the progress.
In this case I’m excited to share an issue that came up in the initial planning stage -- which I can happily report is solved.
Staying within a budget for a project is incredibly important to me. I value my clients time and information and do everything I can to make sure the finished version aligns with the initial projected cost. On this project, the canvas was large enough (40 x 60) that it wouldn’t leave a lot wiggle room for the shipping. Well, not any in truth, and thus made the project less than feasible. We didn’t want to break the sketch into two pieces for cheaper shipping, and moving to paper to roll it up wouldn’t work with our sketch either. Feeling really dismayed that I wouldn’t be able to make this project fit in the budget, I tried one last option.
The Fredrix Dixie-Pro rollup canvas kit.
The kit is a rolled, pre-gessoed length (multiple sizes to pick from) of Fredrix’s Dixie Pro canvas. It’s stapled on one side with a sturdy cardboard tube in the middle to support the canvas and is packaged with all the appropriate sized stretcher bars and their patent-pending stretching tool. By using the kit I can stretch it in my studio, paint the work, undo the canvas and repackage in it's original long, thin box to send out. With this arrangement shipping is far, far less of a concern and makes the project 100% feasible.
What I needed:
-Electric drill
-Staples/Staple gun
((Everything else is included in the kit.))
To put it together, I simply unrolled the canvas on my vacuumed studio floor, and aligned the stretcher bars. From there I screwed in the cross pieces at 90 degree angles and added the crossbeams. Once the frame was together I used the provided tool system to stretch the canvas and staple down.
I usually stretch my canvases by hand, or by using a set of metal stretcher clamps --- but I was seriously so impressed with the Fredrix kit stretching system. It was incredibly easy to get a perfect tautness in the canvas, and even easier to staple down. If I was stretching the kit without the disassembly I’d cut the extra canvas off and fold the corners - but since my client will be re-stretching on her end I left the extra.
The canvas was easy to build, and will be just as easy to take apart to save on transit fees. I’m ridiculously thrilled that it solved the shipping problem and made this project possible --- and can’t wait to start the painting phase!
How I Stretch Canvas - Tutorial
I've gotten a number of questions asking how I build/prepare my painting surfaces, and am still so excited about the previous InstaStory tutorial I made - so I thought I might put together a little blog-compendium for the story. This will be a bit more information with links and such that couldn't be addressed in the story form. ((Though, the story has a few mess ups - follow me to see the mistakes!))
This tutorial begins with a pre-made set of stretcher bars from a previous painting, though I will cover various ways to create your own stretcher bars in a future post. For now, grabbing a set from an art store should suffice.
Step 1.) Materials:
Here I have (from left to right;) My trusty Fredrix canvas pliers, T-square, Stanley Staple gun, T50 Staples, Scissors and Canvas Roll.
List:
Step 2.) Roll Out
I'm a huge fan of "measure twice, cut once", so when I roll the canvas out I don't just eyeball the extra length. I make sure that each side will reach (with some extra room too!) past the stretcher bars.
--- > Note here, if your stretcher bars have a lip like this, that needs to be on the bottom, on what will be the surface for the painting.
Step 3.) Lay Out
Once the canvas has been measured, cut the roll to leave enough space around the stretcher bars for stapling. Some of the canvas may be warped from storage and you can absolutely iron it -- but it should pull taut during stretching regardless. Make sure that the stretcher bars are lined up with the grain/weave of the canvas.
Don't pull too hard, just finger taut is fine. Too much pulling and the canvas might pull apart or rip through the staples. Don't hulk out.
Step 4: STAPLE!
Place the first staple. I put mine in at an angle so it won't tear with the grain if it happens. Turn the canvas 180 degrees, and put in the next staple, pulling the canvas taut either with your hands, or the canvas pliers. (Pliers make the job easier on your fingers/knuckles)
Step 5.) MORE staples!
Keep turning the canvas until each side has one staple, making a cross pattern of stretched canvas in the middle. From here, add one staple to each opposite side and continue to work your way out to the corners.
Step 6.) EVEN More Stapling!
Continue stapling until you get an inch or two away from the corners. With bigger canvas you can leave closer to 2, but I usually ballpark about an inch for anything smaller than 18 x24. The canvas should be stretched taut until the corners where a bit of rippling is fine, we'll pull it when we do the corners.
Step 7.) Corners
Everyone has their own method of doing corners, I personally prefer the diagonal 'giftwrap' edge - but feel free to play with the corners and do what feels right. For my corners, I pull the loose canvas across the stretcher corner to make a point, I crease the point and pull it downwards, then fold the excess back into the pocket it makes and staple down. It sounds much more complicated than it is! There's loads of tutorials on how to make more squared off corners on youtube, if this method doesn't float your boat try one of those.
Step 8.) Bask in the Glow of a Completed Canvas
When turned over, canvas should be pulled tight, clear of any bubbles. If it still has bubbles pull out some staples and try again. Making canvases isn't easy, but once you have a few under your belt you'll get the hang of it.
I'm always so happy to share my process, anyone have something they would like to see written out step-by-step?
<3 <3